LIKE THE SKIING, MOSTLY INTERMEDIATE

The après-ski scene in Cervinia is not as exciting as one might hope. The huge British presence here means that several establishments have decided to shed their Italian identity in favour of replicating a British pub ambience. One such establishment is Copa Pan where, the story goes, one Brit walked in, asked for a Peroni beer and was told "We only serve Irish beer!" at which point he terminated his holiday in disgust and drove home non-stop to his local Pizza Express in order to have his wish fulfilled.

The Red Dragon has draught Double Diamond and Watney's and the Scotch is the place for Karaoke. More sophisticated drinking places include the very agreeable Ymeletrob cocktail bar beneath the Punta Maquignaz, and the Bar des Guides. The jolly, railway carriage-shaped Pession American Bar is generally full of locals and has good bar snacks.

One visitor to Cervinia observed of the nightlife here that it was like the skiing: all intermediate. After the bars close down there are just two discos, the Chimera and the Garage. The latter is a lively place, but since it is out of town you need to take one of the free shuttle buses that run to and fro until the early hours. The Chimera is a relatively sedate basement establishment in the centre.