KITZBUHEL, AT ITS HEART, IS ONE OF THE PRETTIEST SKI TOWNS IN THE WORLD

The medieval walled town of Kitzbühel, which forms the centre of what is today rather a sprawling conurbation, is probably the most charming and beguiling ski town in the world. Quite simply nowhere else on the planet can match it for a sense of history and tradition. Among ski racing fans Kitzbuhel is world famous as the home of the classic Hahnenkamm Downhill course on which the World Cup Men’s Downhill is held each January.

Most of the centre is now more-or-less car-free, but further efforts to restrict the presence of cars would certainly be welcome. The main streets are lined with hotels, shops, restaurants, bars and cafes, some of which have been standing for centuries and others that have just been made to look as though they have. When there is snow on the ground the old town can be especially enchanting at night.

Kitzbuhel’s suburbs are rather less appealing, however, and the roads immediately around the old centre are very prone to congestion. (The fact that they criss-cross busy railway lines does not help the traffic flow.) From many locations it is necessary to take a shuttle bus to the bottom lift stations on either side of the town. (Unfortunately many buses are seriously overcrowded at peak times in high season.)

There have been significant improvements in Kitzbuhel's infrastructure in recent years and many old lifts have finally been replaced by more up-to-date ones. The 30-person gondola link between Pengelstein and Wurzhohe was a big development for 2004/2005 and 2005/2006 saw a high-speed eight-person gondola running from Aschau to Gampen link Kitzbuhel's ski area with that of Westerndorf.

Finally, charming though the small town centre is, it must be remembered that Kitzbuhel is not a typical little Tyrolean village, but rather a valley town with all the facilities and frustrations one would expect.